PEr FYI

January 1, 2019

Remboelan, Jakarta…You should order the entire menu

It’s worth noting that the room is packed: with Instagram-happy food tourists, certainly, but also with toddler-towing families and middle-aged midtown couples. Remboelan nails the palm sugar sweets, the clove, ginger and turmeric depths, and the  spice-stoked endorphin highs that make good Indonesian eating.

The ikan gurami sos manga muda nyamleng (deep fried gourami fillet fish topped with shredded young mango, house pickles and house sweet and sour special sauce) is all kinds of brilliant. It is easily the best single Indonesian dish I’ve eaten in over a year. The mie rebus persisiran (house special chicken noodle with special gravy sauce, served with pickles and prawn crackers) is perfectly satisfying all on its own. Even better is the nasi bakar cumi gurih (delicacy from Remboelan. Grilled lemongrass fragrant rice stuffed with “salty baby squid”, stinky bean and chilli). Order many, many portions. Trust me. Then, just when you think the food can’t get any more exciting, along come the soto koya lamongan (shredded chicken, bean sprout, egg and combined in house special chicken with koya powder, “sambal cuka.”

Come with several mates and order pretty much everything. I say pretty much: that’s just like my kind of dinner party. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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December 29, 2018

Roemah Rempah, Jakarta…there are treasures here

Expect an extensive menu filled with traditional dishes from across Indonesia. Few dishes are truly memorable, but this dessert is an exception.

The sweet richness of pisang goreng gulung saus gula jawa (fried banana roll with plain sugar sauce) is a powerhouse of a dessert. When you’ve got a sweet tooth, this’ll have got you covered.

I’m going back for the pisang goreng. Hell, the other stuff on the menu may not anything to write home about, but try and stop me. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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December 9, 2018

Tamani, Jakarta…Wagyu fried rice is a showstopper

Two thoughts occur to me, very quickly. The first is that I like this place: I like the buzz. I like the food, very much. The other thought is that I adore the menu, by which I mean the object. It’s a menu with food photographs and very lovely they are, too.

I go for the Wagyu high marbling fried rice. It’s both powerful and soothing. The wagyu taste will linger in your mouth wanting more. I also had the gado gado add on lontong which needs no explanation. Most importantly I am left thinking there are things here I want to come back for, like the sup buntut bakar and nasi goreng special.

Any place with that sort of thing like the wagyu high marbling fried rice on the menu surely deserves my deep respect. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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October 30, 2018

MOS Café and Dining, Jakarta…burger is just… well, gross

This restaurant is a leading contender for the competition in the horribleness stakes. I hope this restaurant stays open long enough to be featured on the next series of Gordon’s Kitchen Nightmares.

My heart sank, then my blood pressure spiked when I took a bite of that charcoal rich MOS cheese burger. The pate was cold.  Like repulsive just-out-of-a-refrigerator cold.

Consider the service where servers give you the feeling that you should feel lucky to receive whatever you get. When informed of the cold pate, her explanation is that it is meant to be cold because I had wanted it cooked medium rare.

Whatever you think of my food expertise, allow me this: I have been to a lot of places. And I have never in my life take quite so much pleasure in saying no. Don’t bother with MOS Café and Dining. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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May 5, 2018

Hujan Locale, Bali…Over-order at will, with no regrets

Here it is: The Big One. A place I felt compelled to revisit again and again.

What to have: Crispy squid with chili jam ginger flower lemongrass, Dutch Indonesian salted cod kroket with chili mayonnaise and chili sambal, Sudanese steamed and fried fish dumplings with chili peanut sauce, Chili wood roasted ayam Taliwang stuffed with prawn meat served with cassava chips, Betawi soft shell crab asinan with pickled organic vegetable’s sambal kacang and pink krupuk, “Ayam bakar padang” butterflied whole spring chicken with kandis chili turmeric and coconut served with sambal terasi taucho, Salt grilled whole fish with sambal lemo and kemangi, “Bukit Tinggi itik lado muda” duck leg simmered in green chili and served with fern tip papaya leaf and shredded coconut urap, “Bandung iga bakar kambing” lamb shoulder simmered in Javanese spice and then caramelized in sweet soy tomato and chili, “Gulai ikan salai” house tea smoked fish simmered in Batak curry with ginger flower belimbing wuluh petai and charred leeks, Northern Sumatran octopus rending with star anise fennel and chopped turmeric leaf.

Sorry, I meant everything.

If you’re ever in Bali, you should try to visit this exceptional restaurant at least once. Remember, you only live twice. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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April 8, 2018

Bebek Bengil, Jakarta…check your expectations at the door

Although this is an established name in Indonesia, with a heavy heart, I regret to inform that the restaurant’s most popular dishes – The original crispy duck – half duck steamed in Indonesian spices and deep fried for a crispy finish. Served with steamed rice, Balinese vegetables, or sautéed potatoes and side salad wasn’t particularly delightful. The skin though crispy is dry.

The Sate lilit – Balinese satay with goodness mix of chicken, fish and duck was a bit of hit or miss. The Sup bebek kari  is pretty lackluster.

Well, everything’s a bit middle of the road. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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March 18, 2018

Made’s Warung, Bali…the meal falls flat

warung (roadside stall) in Kuta in 1969, to one of Asia’s top 500 finest restaurants by the Miele Guide in 2013, Made’s Warung is the go-to place for decent, reasonably priced local Indonesian food.

Expect an extensive menu filled with traditional dishes from across Indonesia. A comprehensive Indonesian adventure from Made’s burger – burger bun, beef patty, lettuce, onion, tomato mustard, mayonnaise, cheese, beef bacon and chilli dog sauce served with French fries and tomato sauce to Mie goring – fried noodles with shrimp, beef, chicken and vegetables. But is it good? Well, no, not really, as you will discover when you sit down and eat.

It’s been in business for 49 years – so they must be doing something right! This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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March 3, 2018

Sari Ratu, Jakarta…simply too many dishes to choose from!

Immediately after I enter the place, sit down, a lot of dishes were served on my table a minute later.

Classic Padang style, meant putting a bunch of plates or bowls bearing different types of dishes on the table, allowing you to choose what you want. You can choose from beef, lamb, chicken, or sambal-swathed hard-boiled eggs to top your rice; Indonesia’s greatest hits: beef rendang, a spicy (an easy-to-abuse adjective around an Indonesian table), ayam gulag (special chicken in Indonesia curry) and Udang super (lobster) were my favorites. Portions are smallish (not that you can complain about much at this price) because the meat or vegetables are there as an accent, to flavor the rice. If you need something to quench the fire, order one of the Indonesian milk drinks, made with unlikely combinations like milk, grenadine-like syrup and avocado. Or grab a box of Teh Botol, a sweetened dark tea drink.

You don’t have to eat everything they put on the table. You won’t be charged for what you don’t eat. Untouched platters are taken away and served to other guests. Not everybody will think this is a sanitary way to serve food. Your dish may have visited a number of other tables before it lands on yours.

Cholesterol levels be damned. This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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January 27, 2018

Motel Mexicola, Bali…party like it’s the last day!

What’s a better way of enjoying Bali than hitting some of the hottest locations?

The cramped and crowded Motel Mexicola is popular with the locals—a very good-looking crowd. It’s quite charming in its way with a real Mexican feel, from the music through the murals to the altar . There is definitely a buzz.

It was packed with happy people and the service was friendly. So if you fancy a noisy, lively bar, give it a try. Viva Mexico! This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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January 7, 2018

Sate Babi Bawah Pohon, Bali…utterly delicious

Bali is well-known for its pork dishes. A must-try Balinese dish is this pork meat-on-stick.

Tucked away under a tent in Kuta, the Sate Babi (pork satay) here is utterly delicious and that, and only that, is what everyone is here to feast on. The meat is unbelievably succulent and sweet and had a delicious char-grilled flavor coupled with a rich, mouth-coating savouriness.

Really – I’m not hamming it up! This is the true truth as I say it as it is…

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